A town the ocean is slowly taking back, next to the mangroves of Azagny National Park.
Old Grand-Lahou is one of the strangest sites on the coast. Built on a sand spit at the mouth of the Bandama river, the colonial town has been losing ground to the sea for decades — buildings collapse, the shoreline advances, and the population has progressively moved to a new settlement inland. What remains is a half-abandoned town being dismantled by the ocean, in slow motion.
It is a sobering visit rather than a pretty one, and it is also one of the clearest places in the country to see coastal erosion at work. Next door, Azagny National Park protects lagoons, mangrove and a forest elephant population, and the two together make a strong day.
Colonial buildings in various stages of collapse, right at the water's edge. Go with a local guide — they know which structures are safe to approach.
Mangrove, lagoon and savanna, visited by boat. Forest elephants live here, though sightings are never guaranteed — birds and monkeys are far more reliable.
Where the country's main river meets the Atlantic. Pirogues cross constantly, and the fishing here supports the whole town.
The country's first colonial capital, a UNESCO World Heritage site, and the beach at the end of every street.
ExploreA spit of sand with the lagoon on one side and the Atlantic on the other — the country's weekend destination.
ExploreA working fishing port at a river mouth, with sheltered coves on either side. The quiet option.
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